Education Zone

Stretching your horse is an easy way to maintain good muscle health. Stretches should only be carried out once the muscles have been warmed up. After exercise is the best time to stretch your horse, alternatively using the Equilibrium Massage Pad and the Massage Mitt on key areas, such as the neck, shoulders and quarters can help to warm the muscles up. Stretching a cold muscle increases the risk of damage to the muscle fibres as they are less elastic and can tear more easily. Stretching regularly has many benefits, including: Increased flexibility – which can be associated with an increased stride length Help maintain healthy muscles, tendons, ligaments and fascia Improved joint ROM(Range Of Motion) Promote body awareness Help improve general posture Listed below are 10 simple stretches that you can do with your horse on a regular basis to help keep them supple though their top line, encourage a good stride length and improve neck flexion. Passive Stretches Fore limb Protraction Pick up the horses’ foot as normal and then gradually draw the limb forward supporting the fetlock joint and flexor tendons. Hold for 30 seconds and repeat 3 times on each leg. If your horse is snatching the leg back, reduce the amount of stretch and build up gradually each day. This will stretch the triceps, lattisimus dorsi and other muscles involved with forelimb movement. Hind limb Protraction Draw the horses’ hind limb forwards toward the forelimb fetlock; make sure you keep the leg in a straight line rather than pulling the limb away from the body. Again, hold for 30 seconds and repeat 3 times on each leg. This will stretch the hamstring muscle group. Lateral Extension of Spine Place one hand on the wither and the palm of your other hand on the point of hip. GENTLY place pressure on the point of hip in a straight line towards the back of the horse. Hold for 30seconds and repeat 3 times on each side. Some horses may find this one more difficult than others, take your time and increase the stretch slowly. If your horse tries to move away, ask for less stretch. If the muscles of the back are twitching hold the stretch and don’t ask for any more until this has stopped. Severe twitching may suggest your horse is in a bit more discomfort and would benefit from a once over by your vet. Back lift Run your finger tips down the crease in the muscles on your horses’ hind quarters, to encourage you horse to tilt their pelvis and lift through the lumbosacral region. ‘Tickle’ the area to try and maintain the lift for 15 seconds, repeat 3 times. Don’t try this one if you know your horse can be a bit handy with their back legs! Baited Stretches of the Head and Neck These baited stretches are really easy to achieve using the high value, low sugar treats, Crunchits. This way you don’t need to worry about how many treats your horse is having. With each of these stretches try to maintain the position for 10-15 seconds before giving the treat and repeat this 3 times on each side. Maintain smooth movements without any snatching or grabbing; if your horse is having to try and grab it may mean you’re asking too much too soon, reduce the stretch and build up gradually. Try to ensure your horse is stood as square as possible for all these stretches 1. Take the crunchit between the front legs close to the ground. This will stretch the muscles of the neck and back that make up the top line. 2. Take the crunchit between the horses’ front legs, ensuring he doesn’t start to twist at the poll. This will encourage greater flexion of the neck muscles, the poll, and cervical vertebrae. 3. Bring the crunchit around to the side to encourage lateral flexion. Aim for the horses’ shoulder. 4. From lateral flexion bring the crunchit down to ground level to stretch the muscles closer to the wither – these muscles are particularly important for self carriage. 5. Take the crunchit round to the flank to get an even greater lateral stretch. 6. Finally bring the crunchit forwards, trying to keep the neck horizontal and in line with the back to get full neck extension. Place your other hand on his shoulder to stop him from taking a step forwards and cheating!

If your horse has had a diagnosis of hock arthritis, there are many ways in which we can help the horse continue a working career and maintain a comfortable life. Adjustments may be needed in their husbandry and exercise programmes, but regular veterinary surgeon and complimentary therapist’s treatments will help to control any associated pain and discomfort. This article aims to give an overview on simple things you can implement into your daily routine to help with the management and associated problems with hock arthritis. As explained in the previous article The Horses Hock | Common Problems, Diagnosis and Treatment the hock is a very complex joint, which plays an important part in the performance horse. When problems arise in the hock joint the horse alters their gait to compensate, trying to avoid or minimise any pain or discomfort due to the arthritis. This results in compensatory hypertension and hypertrophy (overdevelopment) in the associated muscles, tendons and ligaments that are now having different stresses and strains applied to them. Due to a possible reduction in hock flexion, and also in an attempt to reduce concussive forces being applied directly through the hock joint, horses often compensate by circumducting (an outward swing) the affected limb during the swing phase of the stride cycle. This results in the muscles on both the medial (inside) and lateral (outside) aspects of the limb having different forces applied to them which can therefore become tight and overdeveloped. We also often see an increase in tension in the lumbar paravertebral region, gluteal region and hamstrings (see image below) – particularly the semimembranosus and semitendinosus muscles of the hind limb. Again, this is due to the horse trying to cushion and reduce the impact from the affected limb(s) striking the ground. The affects of which will often be seen in the ridden horse by being tense in the back, behind the saddle and having a shortened stride of the hind limb. There are many ways in which we can help support and maintain as near normal function as possible within these structures to help prevent further problems. Maintain Core Strength Horses will naturally try to limit and reduce the amount of pain or discomfort felt from an injury or joint disease by off-loading the affected limb. You may see them resting the affected limb more frequently. This off loading over time will have knock on effects on the core musculature which will affect the posture of the horse, and possibly lead to secondary issues. We can help maintain core strength and suppleness by performing baited stretches as part of our daily routine. Stand the horse square and slowly ask them to follow a treat around to the girth area either side, then the flank either side, outside the front fetlock either side, to the chest, between the front legs and then stretching up to the sky. It is always best to perform these exercises when the muscles are warm, so it is advised to do them after exercise, once tack is removed, but before the horse has cooled too much. If your horse is currently not in work then the muscles can be warmed by massaging the area prior to stretching. Click here for a more detailed guide on baited stretches. Massage Massage can be beneficial to help maintain suppleness within the muscles and prevent excessive tension, which can result in altered gait patterns. Regular application of massage, using effleurage – gentle stroking techniques, or petrissage a deeper kneading technique, paying particular attention to the lumbar paravertebral and gluteal muscle groups (muscles running along either side of the spine from behind the saddle region and over the rump) and the hamstring muscle groups (those running down the back of the hind limb and down to the hock). The Equilibrium Massage Mitt or Massage Mitt Hotspot can be particularly useful for massaging these areas. Manual massage can be tough on your hands if you are not conditioned to it, and these products can take away any worry of not knowing the exact techniques to use. The heat from the Massage Mitt Hotspot is very comforting for sore muscles and could also be applied to the hock joint itself before exercise to help warm the area and relieve initial stiffness. Massage can be performed regularly, if time permits, and if carried out after exercise as part of a routine it can help prevent tension building up. 20-30 minutes should be spent on either side of the horse 2-3 times a week (or more if time allows) to help maintain soft and supple muscles. If you find your horse is particularly uncomfortable when you are massaging a specific area it is always advisable to contact your veterinary surgeon or therapist for advice. For many of us, time on the yard is precious, especially through the winter months. The Equilibrium Massage Pad and the Massage Pad Heatsense provide an easy to use, effective massage (massage & heat from the Heatsense) for the muscles of the back and can be a useful tool to help aid the warm-up process before you ride. One of the biggest benefits of these products is that you can carry on other yard chores whilst your horse has their massage. Poles The use of pole work to increase range of motion within the hind limb can be very useful, but needs to be performed with care, your horse’s ability to perform the exercise correctly and being able to move over the poles without knocking them should be taken into consideration when deciding to use poles as part of the rehabilitation. Your Veterinary Surgeon or therapist will be able to advise you more if pole exercises are suitable for your horse. Something as simple as placing a couple of poles at intervals on your walk to and from the field will help to encourage your horse to use the limb through a greater range of motion. When using poles, it is important to take into consideration your horse’s fitness and ability – keep it simple. A single pole walked over cleanly can be much more beneficial than a grid of poles which your horse struggles to perform. Start simple and increase the number of poles over time. Try to always have someone on the floor watching your horse’s movement over the poles, we aim to have a regular stride length and equal limb flexion / extension through the pole configuration and for any horse diagnosed with hock arthritis I prefer to work with the poles in straight lines, rather than on a curve so we keep limb loading as equal as possible. Changes to Management When manging a horse suffering from hock arthritis alterations to their husbandry and exercise regimes may be required to help achieve the best results, with regular assessments from your veterinary surgeon, therapist and farrier the best outcomes can be achieved. You should avoid long periods of restricted mobility and try and keep exercise levels regular throughout the week, avoiding overworking on hard or deep surfaces and be conscious of ground conditions and the terrain you’re working your horse on – harder surfaces and hills will increase the forces applied through the affected joints. As with any Equine injury, ailment or disease if you are unsure at any point about what is appropriate for your horse we advise you refer back to your Veterinary Surgeon or Musculoskeletal Therapist for advice. Thank you to Catherine for writing this article: Catherine MarshallVeterinary PhysiotherapistAdvCert VPhys DipAVN(surgical)RVN Cert Clin Ed Acc Midx MRAMP, MIRVAP

We know that winter can present extra challenges to feeding regimes but this handy little hay block is a really handy way to help keep your horse happy and healthy this winter. Unlike other fibre blocks, vitamunch is based on quality Timothy grass, packed with selected vitamins, minerals and herbs & then sealed for freshness in handy 1kg packs. 1. Relieve boredom Poor pasture and restricted turnout can lead to long hours stood in the stable or out in muddy fields with limited forage. Long periods without food, against their physiological design, can affect both mental and physical health. Vitamunch is great as a boredom breaker both in the field and in the stable, and can be fed in a handy munch net to keep your horse occupied for longer! 2. Help prevent gastric ulcers and keep a healthy gut A horse’s digestive system is designed to eat little and often. Fibre from forage remains the most important part of the diet. As a basic rule of thumb, a horse should eat a minimum of 1% of its bodyweight per day as forage-fibre. This is equivalent to 5kg for a 500kg horse.Gastric ulcers can occur when the horse goes long periods without food, as acid from the stomach can irritate the stomach lining when it is empty or from a lack of saliva, which is usually produced from chewing and eating.Vitamunch is high in fibre and also takes the horse longer to chew, which helps produce more saliva and helps to keep the digestive tract moving. 3. An easy way to add vitamins, minerals and herbs Winter grass can be lacking in nutritional goodness and your horse may be not getting everything he needs. 1kg block of vitamunch provides 50% of the published daily requirement of essential nutrients (based on an average sized horse of 500kg). 4. Sealed for Freshness The individual sealed packs means that vitamunch can be stored for 12 months to keep some at home, in the feed room, lorry or back of the car ready for your horse at any time. Vitamunch Lifestyle Web (5) 5. Healthy, handy and ready for use Vitamunch can be fed everyday in addition to your horses daily feed and supplements or as a useful distraction for stressful situations such as box rest, travelling, loading, shoeing, clipping, separation or unforeseen circumstances.

Daylight is getting longer and the temperatures are lifting, which means…the competition season is within sight! Why not get prepared and take a look at these essential products we believe you need this season? The boot that does it all! The Tri-Zone Impact Sports Boots are ideal for any high-impact activity, including Cross Country, Polo, and Racing to give your horses’ legs the ultimate protection. They offer the perfect balance of weight, protection, breathability and flexibility. There is no need to worry about them getting wet in water combinations either as they are still lightweight even when wet! Everyone needs to relax after a competition, especially our horses! The Equilibrium Massage Pad is a fantastic way to improve back flexibility and promote relaxation. You could even pamper them with a massage before they compete to ensure they are feeling their best. It has three different, easily adjustable programs so you can choose the most suitable intensity of the massage. Comfortable, flexible and super soft schooling dressage wraps! These Training Wraps are soft & comfortable and give fantastic support. They are ideal for both dressage and schooling, so why not grab yourself a pair that you can pop on in the warm up? Their extra thick soft padding supports and protects the tendons, the inside of the cannon bone, and the fetlock joint, whilst looking nice and smart! Smart, weather-proof, and scientifically tested! We all know that accidents happen, so why take the risk when travelling your horse? The Stellar Safety Headcollar is designed to break when your need it to, helping prevent injury! Scientifically tested, the Stellar is made to release when poll pressure is applied, with an average of 83kg downward force - strong enough for safe horse handling, but low enough to prevent serious injury to the horse in the event of an incident! Does your horse get frustrated and bored waiting long hours by the lorry on competition days? Why not try our Calmmunch? It is made from top quality Timothy grass and is a unique, healthy, tasty, high fibre, low calorie, low sugar, cereal free snack. The Munch Net can also be used with it to increase the eating time – an essential for fast eaters!

As owners of horses, ponies, and donkeys, we all know how heartbreaking it can be to see images and reports of animals needlessly suffering, without the love and care they all so desperately deserve. Many of us simply wish we could take them home ourselves, but luckily help is at hand in the form of rescue charities up and down the country, like Redwings Horse Sanctuary. Last week Candice and I took a break from the Equilibrium Products head office to go and meet the residents and staff at Redwings Ada Cole centre in Essex, and to get a taste of the vital work they do to rescue, rehabilitate, and rehome horses, ponies and donkeys. So, with a car packed with tasty treats and supplements, including Vitamunch, Simply Irresistible, Simply Sunshine, and of course our new Crunchits Advent Calendars, we were ready to go and meet some very special equines. Redwings Ada Cole is home to 90 horses, ponies and donkeys, each with their own harrowing stories of how they ended up at the centre. Guided by Redwings team members Steph and Jess, we were taken from field to field, each filled with herds of happy, content, and healthy animals. As we walked, Steph and Jess told us about many of the animals in their care, how they arrived, and their personalities (like Edward the pony, who Jess proclaimed as a personal favourite and has a tendency to steal buckets for fun…). Many of the stories we heard started tragically, particularly as many of the horses and ponies at the centre originated from Spindles farm, an infamous case of horrific neglect affecting over 100 horses. For all, it is hard to believe the horses they are talking about are the same ones in the field; one such case is Zippy. As one of Redwings’ ‘Adoption Stars’ Zippy is quite the celebrity at the centre. Despite a tough start in life, this stunning Gelderlander is the picture of health, and very affectionate with both visitors and staff alike. During our day at Redwings Ada Cole, we were treated to an up close and highly personal view of what life is like at the centre. Taking pictures with our chosen Adoption Stars Zippy, Elvis, Tinkerbell, and donkey Del Boy, we could see just how caring and dedicated the staff are to every resident, and how important it is to educate visitors about the plight of rescue animals. It also clear to see that the interaction, and support from the public is vital for continuing the charity’s work; as the largest equine rescue charity in the UK, and with 1500 equines in their care nationwide, there is certainly a lot of work to do! So what can be done to help? Redwings relies on fundraising and donations, but we think one of the best and most rewarding ways to get involved is by adopting one of the charity’s many Adoption Stars. For only £15 you can adopt a horse, pony or donkey for a year and receive a picture and regular updates, access to your Star’s online diary and even an invitation to your adopted horse or donkey’s birthday party! Whether as a gift for a loved one, or as a new four-legged friend for you, adopting with Redwings is a simple but rewarding way of helping to support their rescue efforts, and on-going care of these very special horses. Adopt an Adoption Star here Sadly, not all of us have the time or resources to rehome these wonderful animals ourselves, but by supporting charities like Redwings we as horse, pony and donkey lovers can be sure that rescued equines all over the country will receive the love, care and attention they need to be bought back to health. So, in the run up to winter why not help by adopting, donating, or take a visit to your local Redwings centre to see the wonderful work they do for yourself? You’re sure to have an eye-opening experience, and if you’re lucky may even get to witness the ‘donkey button’ in action! Find out more about how you can help here Please note: If you do visit your local Redwings Centre, if you bring any treats for the horses, please drop them at the visitors centre on arrival. Please do not feed the horses, ponies and donkeys directly.

So, what is ‘the correct seat’? International rider, trainer and FEI judge, Judy Harvey explains, “The rider’s seat remaining in balance over the centre of gravity is critical in effective horsemanship. To achieve this, the rider’s leg has to be underneath their seat.  Draw an imaginary line from the ear, shoulder, hip heel. This should be perpendicular to the ground. An established, still, relaxed, lower leg is critical to staying in balance. For those who find it difficult to achieve this position the symmetry straps are a fantastic training aid, developing the muscle memory to help achieve great riding”. SHOP NOW Do you have wayward legs? We all know from our lessons that the correct leg position for a secure effective seat is to have the heel and hip in alignment with the leg relaxed and still, toes pointing forward and heel slightly lower than the toe. The lower leg is therefore in the ideal position to influence the horse’s impulsion, straightness, bend, collection and lateral movement. The very best riders make it look easy but many of us struggle with the position and stillness of our lower leg. We have outlined some of the more common leg problems – do you identify with any of these? The ‘Skier’ – the foot pushed too far forward and the heel is forced down.  The rider is more likely to be ‘behind the movement of the horse’ and the leg is too far forward to be effective. The ‘Swinger’ – the lower leg (below the heel) is swinging back and forth like a pendulum. This involuntary movement is more pronounced at canter but will also be seen in rising trot. This ‘swinging leg’ not only looks untidy it also means that the rider will have to use a much stronger leg aid to influence the horse as the horse will be become numb to the constantly moving leg. The ‘Percher’ – the lower leg is drawn back too far with the heel up.  Here the rider is ‘perched’ in the saddle with their upper body weight too far forward.  This is a very insecure position and can be particularly seen when riders are jumping.  It the horse refuses or ‘stumbles on landing this position means that the rider is likely to fall off to the front. The ‘Duck’ – the toe points outwards and the heel is in constant contact with the horse’s side. In is more common that riders have one leg where the toe  points outwards. It looks untidy, potential dangerous as the turned out foot is more likely to be catch (going to gateways etc) and horses may ignore the aids from this rider. A simple and effective lower leg training aid can help! Many riding instructors recommend Symmetry Straps to help riders achieve a better lower leg position.  Symmetry Straps secure the stirrup irons to the girth in a safe manner – ensuring that the leg is in the correct position and by restricting the movement preventing the leg from getting out of position or swinging back and forth. Using Symmetry Straps on a regular basis as part of their training programme riders can develop the muscle memory and muscle strength to keep their legs in the correct position without the straps. They are discreet and designed in such a way that the rider from the saddle can control whether they are fitted or not and how restrictive to make them.  Yes, I want to improve my riding & BUY SYMMETRY STRAPS NOW

What are sarcoids? Sarcoids are benign skin tumours that can be found in horses, donkeys and mules, they are generally not life threatening but do destruct the skin cells that are surrounding them. They appear in different forms on a horse and are most commonly found on the abdomen, inside the backs of legs, the chest and around the ears and eyes. Normally at the sight of previous traumas and where flies congregate. Even though there are 6 different types of sarcoids they all start small and grow at different rates, when they enlarge the skin may ulcerate that can attract flies and cause an open sore. Why does a horse get sarcoids? Sarcoids are caused by an infection the virus Bovine Papilloma Virus (BPV), it is a virus that originates from cattle but is spread by flies. All horses may be infected by BPV in their life, however not all of them will be susceptible to the virus and present with sarcoid growth. How do I know if my horse has sarcoids? Not all lesions that appear on the skin are sarcoids so a vet should be able to diagnosis whether it is a sarcoid or any other skin problem.  If the vet is unsure they can take a biopsy to confirm the diagnosis, this is the last resort diagnosis as a biopsy is invasive. As to know if your horse has the gene that makes them susceptible to sarcoids there is a genetic test that can be carried out however these are not used very often by vets as they can be inconclusive and are expensive to run. How can I prevent sarcoids? There is no easy prevention of sarcoids as there has not yet been a vaccine developed for the disease. Making sure your horse’s immune system is at its strongest in order to help fight the virus and boost the immune system. How are sarcoids treated? There are many ways that sarcoids can be treated and as they all react differently to treatment. The main way of treatment is the use of Liverpool cream, a chemotherapy cream created at the University of Liverpool. This takes place over a number of weeks and can become expensive as the  cream can only be applied by a vet.  The cream is applied every day for a week or every other day for 2 weeks although this may change on a case by case basis.  It is method that makes the sarcoid look worse before becoming better, as it kills all the cells from the area that it is applied to and after a long period of time the sarcoid falls off along with all of the skin cells containing the virus. This then leaves a raw patch of skin exposed (see picture on right), which is why the best time for Liverpool treatment is in the winter where no flies can infect the exposed patch of skin.  There  are many success stories of it fully getting rid of sarcoids although others say that it returned, again reiterating that every sarcoid is different and may have a different reaction to treatment. Another way is rubber banding this is specific to certain types of sarcoids as it is not possible to get a band around every one as some lie flat. But if a band can be placed around it, then the circulation to the sarcoid will slowly be cut off until it dies and falls off.  Along the same lines as this,  there is also laser surgery and Cryosurgery.  They all aim to remove the sarcoid cleanly leaving no trace. Laser is the least invasive using lasers to remove it, Cryosurgery uses a repeated rapid freezing method which is time consuming. Alternatively there are homeopathy treatments that have worked in some cases but also have limited success as they tend to need harder treatments to remove the sarcoids. However there has been proven success with Bloodroot treatment which is a plant extract, used in a similar way to Liverpool cream, the picture on the left shows a pony who had bloodroot treatment and the results after 3 weeks (2 weeks of treatment with 1 week off in between), for this pony however, the treatment did not completely get rid of it. Do I need to treat my horse’s sarcoids? Not necessarily if the lesion is not getting bigger or is in a place that will not affect the horse then it is up to you if you leave it. However when the sarcoid is smaller it is easier and quicker to treat so early treatment is recommended. Discuss with your vet which is the best method of removing for your horse and its type of sarcoid.

What causes colic? Colic can be caused by gut “spasms” (e.g. due to a change in diet), impaction of partially-digested food material or sand, stretching of the gut wall by gas, twisting of the gut so that its blood supply is cut off, displacement of a segment of gut from its normal position, stomach ulcers and fatty tumours wrapping around the gut and strangulating it. Horses are prone to colic because of their unusual GI tract anatomy (particularly the length) and the way their gut works.  It is important to note that many other conditions, e.g. urinary problems, azoturia etc, can present as colic. What are the clinical signs of colic? Mild colic Moderate colic Severe colic ·         Lip curling   ·         Flank watching ·         Restlessness ·         Pawing the ground ·         Dullness ·         Frequently posturing to urinate   ·         Lying down and getting up ·         Lying on their side for long periods ·         Violent rolling   ·         Sweating ·         Rapid breathing How can I prevent colic? Some causes of colic are preventable if good stable management and a regular daily routine are followed: Use an effective worming programme to control parasite levels. Ensure your horse has a constant supply of fresh and drinkable water. Feed small quantities and use good quality, high fibre, feed stuff and include plenty of forage in your horse’s diet. Be consistent with your feeding routine and make gradual changes to your horse’s diet. Ensure your horse has a consistent turn-out and exercise regime. Turn out on good quality pasture, avoiding poor or overgrazed fields or, conversely, lush spring grass. Have an effective dental programme in place because tooth problems can cause digestive issues if food isn’t chewed properly. In sandy areas, avoid feeding horses from the ground as they may ingest large amount of sand. Reduce stress levels by ensuring your horse has a consistent routine and environment and be mindful of stress when travelling your horse. If your horse has a habit of eating his bedding, ensure he is bedded down on something other than straw; this is particularly important if your horse has to suddenly undergo a prolonged period of box rest. Habits such as crib-biting and windsucking will increase the risk of colic and some horses are more prone to recurrent episodes of colic Thank you to vets, Rick Farr and Nikki Pursey, of Farr & Pursey Equine Veterinary Services, for their input to this article. Helpful resources The Royal School of Veterinary Studies – colic information sheet The University of Liverpool Equine Hospital

The equine eye The eyes of the horse are located laterally (either side) of the skull which maximizes the horse’s field of vision. The equine eye is a very delicate structure and in comparison to other species, does not tolerate injury or disease at all well. For this reason it is highly recommended that veterinary advice is always sought as soon as possible in any problem relating to the equine eye. First of all a complete history of your horse will be taken, his age, breed and any previous illnesses noted. Current management of the horse is then determined followed by the details of the current problem. The eye is a complex organ and there are numerous structures inside the eye which the vet will examine. First of all, the gross appearance of the eyes are assessed, checking for symmetry, swellings, overflow of tears, etc. His vision is then assessed by the menace reflex (does the horse blink if an object moves towards his eye?) and the pupillary reflex (a light is shone in the eye and the pupil should constrict). Assessment of the Equine Eye In a darkened stable, an opthalmoscope enables the vet to visualise the interior of the eye. An assessment of the following structures is performed: Cornea Anterior chamber Lens Iris Vitreous body Retina Optic disc A normal, healthy eye will be open, clear and bright with no discharge. The conjuntivae will be pink and there will be no swelling present. A painful eye will present with some or all of the following signs: Blepharospasm (eye clamped shut) Lacrimation (tear overflow) Chemosis (swollen conjunctivae) Discharge (yellow, white or green) Photosensitivity (sensitivity to light) Corneal oedema (cloudy eye) Miosis (Constriction of the pupil) If your horse presents any of the above clinical signs you should phone your vet immediately. Some Common Conditions Corneal Ulcers This is a very common condition seen in all type of horses or ponies and is extremely painful. Your horse’s eye maybe swollen, clamped shut, watering profusely and may have a cloudy appearance. Due to the pain he is experiencing, your horse will not allow you to open his eye manually and may even become naughty if you persist in trying. A corneal ulcer is where the surface of the eye is damaged, usually caused by some kind of trauma or foreign body. Your vet will stain the eye to check for damage. An intact, undamaged cornea will not take up the stain whereas most corneal ulcers will stain green quite clearly. Treatment consists of frequent application of serum, antibiotics and pain relief direct to the eye. Oral pain relief medication may also be administered if required. Turn out is permitted only with a fly mask to prevent damage to the back of the eye from the sun and secondary infection from flies or dirt. Some corneal ulcers can be very persistent so prompt veterinary attention is essential. Equine Recurrent Uveitis Also known as “moon blindness”, this condition is an important condition in that it can recur throughout the horse’s life causing significant painful episodes which, in extreme circumstances, can lead to the removal of the eye. This condition is often mistaken for a traumatic injury due to the amount of pain the horse is in and the swelling around the eye. ERU’s primary cause can be a virus, systemic disease or trauma. It is thought to be an immune-mediated disease where the structures inside the eye are inflamed. Often debris can be seen in the front of the eye, the cornea may be cloudy and the pupil constricted. Examination with the opthalmoscope is often resented due to increased sensitivity to light and the eye does not take up the stain. Treatment consists of pain relief, topical steroids, antibiotics, serum and atropine (to dilate the pupil). This condition can be frustrating due to random repeat episodes causing significant pain and requiring aggressive treatment. It is thought that sunlight and wind can aggravate an episode so turn out is permitted only with adequate eye protection such as a fly mask with an eye patch sewn in. Conjunctivitis Also a common but not so painful a condition, conjunctivitis is a bacterial infection of the eye. As an owner you will find your horse has an ocular discharge which is usually yellow or green in colour. The conjunctivae will be inflamed and there may be some swelling but in general the horse is not too worried. Your vet will stain the eye to check for corneal damage and usually just dispense antibiotic eye drops. It is recommended that sterile water / saline soaked cotton wool swabs are used to clean the discharge away twice daily. In the summer months, ocular discharge will attract flies which exacerbate the condition, therefore it is recommended the horse is turned out at night, or otherwise in a fly mask. Blocked Tear Ducts This condition tends to worry the owner more than the horse. It presents as a persistent, watery, ocular discharge which despite regular cleaning does not settle down. It usually occurs in the warmer months and is very obvious when the horse is brought in from the field. There is no pain or swelling with this condition unless a secondary bacterial infection has occurred. There can be hair loss in the area where the watery discharge lies or just matting of the hair in this area. Normally tears produced by the eye, flow down the nasolacrimal duct and drains into the nose. However the tear ducts are very fragile structures which are lined with a soft membrane. If damaged this lining can stick to itself and block the duct resulting in an overflow of tears from the eye. Although not a serious condition, the ocular discharge does attract flies which in turn can cause a bacterial infection. Two treatment options exist, the first is management rather than treatment. The eyes can be wiped cleaned twice daily with sterile, soaked swabs and a fly mask used whenever the horse is turned out. Antibiotic eye drops maybe dispensed. The second option requires the horse to be sedated so that the tear ducts can be flushed with sterile saline. This is not a painful procedure but the horse does feel some discomfort. Steroid / antibiotic eye drops are then dispensed to reduce any inflammation within the ducts. Many horse owners feel happy managing this condition and tend to keep the flushing procedure as a back up plan. Flushing the tear ducts is obviously more costly and can be disappointing in that there may be a recurrence in the ducts becoming blocked. Fly Mask Selection For many eye complaints, treatment includes protection of the eye from sunlight and insects. For ERU ('moon-blindness') a mask with an eye patch for 100% protection is normally recommended. For most other conditions, a good quality fly mask is recommended by many vets to their clients. It should be looked at that the fly mask stays well away from the eye, is comfortable for the horse and offers UV protection too. Summary There are several common eye conditions, which can be very painful for the horse. Horses' eyes are unusually delicate, and this, combined with the horse's reliance on the sense of sight, means that all symptoms of a potential eye problem should be treated seriously. It is strongly recommended that veterinary advice is always sought as soon as possible, to assess the condition and start treatment. By Claire McKinstry MRCvs  

Christine East, a McTimoney Animal Practitioner, shares her expertise on how to care for your cold-backed horse. An increasing number of horses are being diagnosed as ‘cold-backed’, and the problem is much more common than many horse owners think. So what does it actually mean, and how can it be treated? What does ‘cold-backed’ mean? The term ‘cold-backed’ is used to describe a horse displaying symptoms of a sensitive or painful back. These symptoms can range from very mild, such as discomfort when the girth is tightened, to more serious, lasting until the horse has warmed up and the muscles are relaxed. McTimoney Animal Practitioner, Christine East has treated many cold-backed horses. “There are lots of different interpretations of the term ‘cold-backed’, and it can be used to cover a range of different symptoms,” she says. “However, it is important to remember that every horse is an individual, so they may display different signs to other horses with the same problem.” What to look out for Christine stresses that it is common for horse owners to worry about confusing a cold back with their horse’s behaviour towards activities, such as tacking up and grooming. However, there are definite signs to look out for, which include: Soreness or sensitivity to grooming over the backReacting to the saddle, such as dipping or bridging the back when it is put onDiscomfort when the girth is tightenedRefusal or reluctance to let you mount from the groundStiffness through the back during the first few minutes of work What is the cause of a cold back? Christine suggests that one of the underlying problems is evolutionary. “Horses didn’t evolve to carry people on their backs and compensate for the extra weight. This means they can develop sensitive nerve endings or a misalignment in the spine as a result. Some of the most common causes of a cold back include: pressure from a poorly fitting saddle; aggravation of previous injuries to back muscle; or problems with your horse’s teeth or feet, which cause them to readjust their posture. Another cause, which I think is often overlooked, is the posture and position of the rider,” says Christine. “I often have calls from owners whose horses all seem to have developed the same back problem and it is caused by the horse having to compensate for the rider’s bad posture. When having your horse treated, it is sometimes worth seeing a back specialist yourself!" Treating a cold back As there are such a range of symptoms for a cold back, it is important to consult your vet as a first port of call, who can rule out any injury or more serious problems. They can then refer your horse to a physiotherapist, chiropractor, or McTimoney practitioner, as necessary. “Symptoms associated with a cold back are not usually too difficult to treat,” says Christine. “Most treatments work to relieve spasms or misalignments in the spine, which cause a pull in the surrounding muscle tissue and result in soreness.” When treating a cold back, it is also advisable to have your horse’s feet and teeth checked, to ensure that there aren’t any problems here that are causing knock-on effects. Prevention is key There are certain preventative measures that can be taken to help stop your horse developing back problems in the future. Have your saddle checked annually, because a horse’s shape can change throughout the year and may not be the same as when the saddle was fitted. Always warm up properly before exercise and remember to cool down when you have finished – this allows your horse’s muscles to adjust to your weight and avoid any damage. If your horse is particularly sensitive, tack up and walk him around for five minutes before mounting – this will give the muscles a head start and ensure he is comfortable when you are mounting. In addition, always use a mounting block rather than mounting from the ground, as this can place extra stress on the back. Often, when a horse won’t stand still for mounting, it is an indication that he finds it uncomfortable, so take care as you get on. When schooling, ensure you do sufficient work on both reins – this will benefit the whole body, not just the back, and will help your horse to remain flexible through both sides of his body. A cold back is treatable “The good thing to remember is that the problems associated with a cold back are almost always treatable,” says Christine. As with everything though, prevention is better than cure, so taking good care of your horse’s back is important, and will help him stay fit and healthy and able to perform at his best.

COWS can wear FLY MASKS and ten more things you may not know about the Field Relief range. As horse owners ourselves, we understand the importance of a long lasting, comfortable and well fitting fly mask. It’s the ‘difference is in the detail’ that makes our Field Relief range rank Best in Tests*. But did you know? 1. DUSK TO DAWN Our Field Relief Fly Masks can be worn all day and all night. Its often early morning or late evening when midges and other biting insects are at their worst – the Field Relief range is so comfortable and visibility is great that keeping them on overnight means you catch the midges from dusk til dawn . For horses out 24/7, we do recommend making sure you check your horse regularly and allow him time without the mask to prevent risk of rubbing. 2. RECOMMENDED BY VETS The Field Relief range has been recommended by vets. With UV protection and clever design features, our fly masks are perfect for horses and ponies with common eye complaints and those sensitive to light. 3. SHAPED TO FIT The Field Relief Fly Masks actually have ‘ear shaped’ ears – we use a super comfortable and breathable soft mesh for our ergonomically shaped ear pieces to offer the best fit and comfort. 4. SUPERIOR FABRICS We source only the best fabrics for our fly masks. The fabrics are chosen for their durability, breathability and protection. The PVC coated polyester is a solar screen fabric, designed to reduce heat transfer and protect from the glare and harmful rays from the sun whilst allowing air and light to pass through the mask. 5. UP TO 80% UV PROTECTION This Solar Screen fabric is proven and tested to block out up 80% of sun rays in the Field Relief Max and up to 70% for the Field Relief Midi Mask. 6. SOFT AND COMFORTABLE For ultimate comfort we use a soft mesh for around jaw area and behind ears to prevent rubbing and irritation for the horse 7. ADJUSTABLE TO FIT To cater for an array of different shapes and sizes of horses and ponies, our Field Relief Fly Masks are adjustable to fit. The muzzle protector/ nose piece can be adjusted higher or lower and can be detached on days when it’s not needed. The hook and loop fastenings under the jaw and behind the ears provide a secure fit for a wide range of horses and ponies. 8. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE DETAIL Careful design and thoughtful additions make the Field Relief range as popular now than ever. Carefully positioned darts in the face pieces ensures good eye clearance, comfort and great visibility. The soft sponge padding around the brow area and on the noseband prevents rubbing and offers that extra level of comfort. Elastic bound edges are added for a secure fit, supreme comfort and importantly, to stop pesky flies from getting in underneath mask. 9. MADE FOR DONKEYS TOO! From Shetlands to Shires and Donkeys too.. We make our Field Relief Fly Masks in a wide of range of sizes from extra, extra small to extra large and even donkeys too catering for those special ears. 10. EASY TO USE, EASY TO WASH Field Relief Fly Masks are washable; easy to hand wash or on a gentle machine wash means they come out looking like new. Combines protection against sun and insects, with comfort. Twice Voted Best in Test – Horse & Rider Magazine 2012 and 2018

What are electrolytes? Present in small amounts, electrolytes are positively charged ions that are dissolved in the blood and the fluid that exists between cells and sweat. The principal electrolytes are sodium, potassium, chloride, calcium and magnesium. How do horses get their electrolytes? Most horses receive most of their daily electrolytes from forage.  Calcium and phosphorus are also commonly added to compound feeds and mixes.  However salt can be low in forages and are not added in high levels into compounds.  Hence extra salt is routinely offered as licks or in the feed. Horses on low forage diets, such as those receiving a lot of hard feed, or those on restricted diets due to being good-doers, will have a lower electrolyte supply than horses with good fibre levels in their diet. Many working horses receive added electrolytes as a supplemented to their diet. Why are electrolytes important? Electrolytes are responsible for the correct function of nerves and muscles.  They also help maintain normal hydration and are integral in maintaining the functioning of the digestive system, and the other vital organs. Sub-optimal electrolyte status can lead to muscle problems and poor performance.  Since electrolytes cannot be stored in the body, the amount available to the horse is dependent on electrolyte intake compared to natural losses through sweat, urine and faeces. Electrolytes and sweating Sweating removes heat generated by muscles during exercise.  A fit horse efficiently removes heat from where it is not wanted in the muscles, out to the skin where it is lost through sweat- where the process of evaporation from the skin cools the horse. Equine sweat is hypertonic – that it is contains more salts than internal body fluids – which means that a sweating horse loses electrolytes as well as water.  Typically a working horse can lose 7-8 litres in an exercise bout. The amount of sweat produced by an individual depends on temperature, workload, temperament and stage of fitness. One litre of horse sweat contains around 3.5g of sodium, 6g of chloride, 1.2g of potassium and 0.1g of calcium I litre of sweat is estimated to dissipate heat from 1 –2 minutes of extreme work or about 5 minutes of sub-maximal work, summer or winter  When do horses need extra electrolytes? Whenever a horse works hard, summer or winter. Electrolyte use in the days before a competition will stimulate water intake such that the horse enters the competition fully hydrated. (long term mega-dosing is wasteful as any excesses cannot be stored) Before during or after travelling: offering water or an isotonic solution every couple of hours on long journeys should help avoid unnecessary fluid* and/or electrolyte deficits before the competition has begun. Before and during moderate to intense work: Research has shown that correct administration of good quality electrolytes can increase the time it take for a horse to fatigue by nearly 23%. (On the day of competition or exercise bout, the final offer of electrolytes should be made together with water, at least 4 hours before exercise.) Horses on low or restricted forage diets (i.e. less than 30% of total diet as forage) will receive a diet inherently low in electrolytes.. Equally a new forage source could be markedly different to the previous source, and cause problems.

Salt, electrolytes and gastric ulcers The use of electrolytes in relation to gastric ulcers has been mooted since a study in endurance horses showed those receiving a concentrated electrolyte paste once per hour for eight hours showed higher rate of gastric lesions than those receiving a placebo.  Extreme use such as this is not routinely recommended.   It is necessary to replenish lost salt and electrolytes after sweating, because sweat contains both water and electrolytes; sweating cools the horse by the process of the evaporation of water from the skin, but in losing water the horse also loses electrolytes, which must then be replenished through the diet. Ensuring a sound base of forage in the diet is essential – forages themselves are a source of electrolytes, and they also create a reservoir of water bound with the fibre in the hindgut that acts as a fluid reservoir when sweating. Supplementary electrolyte requirements are highly individual, dependent on the duration and intensity of the workload, the core ration as well as the environmental conditions.  Electrolyte tips: Maximise forage intakes where possible.  If travelling or on restricted forage diets consider offering forage in a  way that slows consumption such as double walled hay nets or the use of a forage block. Consider providing salt blocks at home; Always follow the supplement manufacturer’s recommendations for use Always offer fresh water when administering electrolytes Never administer electrolytes on their own into an empty stomach – try mixing them with some type of fibre – e.g. a small amount of alfalfa

Jack Dawson – Heart Stopper Jack Dawson retired sound from racing at the age of 10 in autumn 2007 after 71 races. During Jack’s career he won eleven races, nine on the flat and two over hurdles. John Berry of Beverley House Stables, his Newmarket Trainer, commented that Jack was a versatile and genuine character, winning races over a variety of distances and conditions. However, Jack did have a few setbacks during his eight years of racing.  These included sarcoids as 2 year old, a fractured pelvis in 2002 and a fractured cannon bone in 2005. Jack is owned by Equilibrium’s Margaret Donnelly and Paul Wright.  Originally part of a racing syndicate, they took Jack home with them to Buckinghamshire at the end of his racing career. After Jack retired from racing he was given three months of rest to get used to a new way of life on a small yard. Margaret Donnelly said “As he was just 10 years old we felt that he could be retrained as a riding horse.  He was just too young to retire completely and he still wanted to be in the centre of things. Without a job to do Jack gets up to all sorts of mischief including opening field gates to let all the horses out and locking me in the feed room for several hours”. Sensitive & Sore Racing puts a large amount of strain on a horse’s back, broken in at a young age to compete, race horses can become rigid and hollow in their way of going. Jack was very sensitive and wasn’t keen to have anyone touch his back with a new saddle so after Jack’s rest he was brought slowly back into work. Jack happily wore the Equilibrium Magnetic back pad underneath his stable blanket every night and over time both the Equilibrium Magnetic back pad and the Equilibrium Massage pad have helped him significantly. The Equilibrium Massage Pad was used on Jack almost everyday. He always has a session before he is ridden, helping warm up his back considerably before anyone gets on. (You can tell if Jack hasn’t had his massage!) Both of these products have helped Jack’s back noticeably, aiding him to become more supple in many movements, being physically able to engage his hindquarters and stay in a more consistent outline. John Berry says Jack’s old trainer, John Berry, commented that “Jack’s toughness is shown by the statistics of his career, which lasted nine seasons and comprised 71 races, 11 of which he won.  However, the essence of his toughness was his ability to bounce back from setbacks; he had a few injuries along the way, some of which would have been career-ending to a lesser horse, but each time he made a complete recovery and returned to action with renewed enthusiasm.  Most horses would lose the will to compete after setbacks such as these, but his love of competing never diminished and he remained as fiercely competitive in his final season as he had been at the outset. All in all, he was just a very tough, professional and very genuine racehorse.  He wasn’t a champion and didn’t have the potential to be one, but over the years he probably over-performed because of his immense fighting spirit and determination to compete and to win.” A start of a new career Endurance rider, Lorna Kidson, met Jack a few years ago. Lorna says, “I was asked by Margaret if I thought their ex racehorse Jack Dawson might be suitable for endurance. With TLC and a lot of time and patience, Margaret and dressage rider Laura Plant had re-schooled him and even done a few dressage tests. Whilst Jack was such a willing boy that he completed his tests and completed them very well, Margaret didn’t really feel that he enjoyed it but thought he was not quite ready just to be a field ornament! At his initial events,  it took quite a bit of patience and calmness to get Jack to settle as he thought he was going racing and was very suspicious of the vetting and the farrier checks. He is very sensitive and is wary of strangers.  His body is covered in old sarcoid scars and this may have made him more cautious about being touched. The use of carrots however to distract him worked a treat until he got used to strange people touching him. We also practiced at the yard with getting different people handling him.  He did very well in his first season – racking up several Grade 1s.2010 was a successful year for him, as Jack upgraded to Advanced. He won both a performance formula class and a Rufus points class and he consistently got a grade 1 or 2. He is fast on course as he has such a huge stride; he happily trots along at well in excess of 20kph. Unfortunately he bruised his feet quite badly when he lost both front shoes whilst at Lindum Spirit Endurance Ride and we decided to do quite a bit of remedial work to sort his feet out.  This meant he was turned away for the rest of the year.  2011/2012 In 2011, and at the age of 14, Jack came back with renewed vigour.  He completed four events and was graded in all of them. This resulted in Jack winning the runner-up prize for the South Essex Insurance Brokers and Retraining of Racehorses’ Elite Performance Award for Endurance, a fantastic achievement. Winning ROR Endurance Award 2012 was another year off, with Jack recovering from a leg injury but 2013 was to be a better year.  Contesting the ROR Elite Performance Award again, Jack won by a mile with 1605 points.  This resulted in him taking part in a ROR parade at Ascot Racecourse on King George Day – almost more than he could handle.  Needless to say he was more than excited to be back on a racecourse! Happy Retirement In 2014 Jack stared the season aimed for a cup race but Lorna felt that his heart just wasn’t in it.  The decision was made to retire him completely and he now spends his days happily alongside his sister, Jenny Dawson and the other Equilibrium horses. Margaret says, “Jack is a sensitive and quirky horse but he is also very genuine and tries his heart out. Even when he is exhausted at the end of a race, if you ask, he will dig deep for you and find that inner core of toughness that makes Jack such a unique person. To have been so long in racing (71 races and 8 years) it is a testimony to Jack’s big heart that he has completely adjusted to a new way of life and is being so successful at a new sport. It is a privilege to have such a wonderful character in our lives. His resilience, his enthusiasm and his ability to overcome problems is a lesson to us humans.”

The structures in a horse’s feet are responsible for supporting the full weight of the horse over a small area. Routine foot care is therefore extremely important, as any problems in the feet can be extremely detrimental to mobility and health. Structure of the foot Coronary band This is located at the top of the hoof and is responsible for creating horn that makes up the hoof wall. Periople This is the outer layer of the hoof that forms a protective covering on the hoof wall. It is responsible for regulating moisture content in the horn, secreted from the perioplic ring above the coronet. Hoof wall The hoof wall is the exterior of the hoof, made from a keratin-based substance.It provides a hard protective layer around the internal parts in the foot. It takes 9-12 months for the hoof to grow from the coronary band to the toe. In order for the horn to grow correctly and form a healthy foot, the horse must be provided with a good diet and be in good health. These factors must be checked if the horn starts to become brittle and weak or if the foot looks badly formed. A feed supplement of biotin may be helpful to promote good horn growth. Sole This is a tough structure that provides external protection to the sensitive sole underneath. It is slightly concave and is not weight bearing. Frog The frog has an extruding triangular structure which extends from the heel to halfway down the foot. Its function is to absorb concussion, provide grip and be a weight-bearing surface for the foot. It also ensures that a healthy blood supply reaches the foot. The grooves along each side of the frog allow for expansion when it makes contact with the ground. Inside the foot Sensitive sole This is found underneath the pedal bone, within the insensitive sole. It produces the new cells that replace lost layers of the insensitive sole. Digital cushion The digital cushion is found between the pedal bone and deep flexor tendon. It is an elastic, fibrous pad that absorbs concussion from ground impact. It also helps to push blood back up the leg. Lateral cartilages These are attached to the pedal bone and serve to protect the coffin joint. They also help absorb concussion. Laminae The insensitive laminae are supportive structures that attach to the hoof wall and interlock with the sensitive laminae. The sensitive laminae then attach and support the pedal bone. The divide between sensitive and insensitive laminae can been seen as a white line on the sole of the foot. Conformation This is extremely important, as the feet are obviously essential to the horse! They should be even and round in shape and in proportion with the rest of the horse. The fronts should be of equal size and shape and so should the hinds. The front feet should slope forwards and be at a 45 degree angle to the ground, and on through the fetlock and pastern. The hind feet should be at an angle of 50-55 degrees to the ground. The hoof wall should be smooth and free from cracks. Any lines could indicate poor nutrition or past cases of laminitis. Poor conformation in the feet can result in strains to tendons and ligaments, tripping and bruising. Many foot conformational faults can be improved by a good farrier and over a period of time. Routine care Apply hoof oil every other day during the summer to help prevent splits and cracks Pick out feet every day with a hoof pick Check shoes for wear and tear and signs that a farrier is needed – such as risen clenches, pinching across the bulbs of the heel, overgrown and misshapen feet Check unshod horses for splits, cracks, flares and overgrown misshapen hooves Ensure that the farrier attends shod feet every four to six weeks, and unshod feet every six to ten weeks Farrier Great care must be taken when selecting a farrier, so ask your vet for recommendations. Correct trimming and shoeing is vital to the horse’s welfare, and any mistakes can lead to serious, lasting damage. The horse’s feet should be correctly balanced whether shod or unshod. Balance is important as inaccuracy can lead to lameness and aggravate navicular syndrome and laminitis. It can affect the whole movement and development of the horse and cause ongoing problems. Shoes are not always needed. It depends on the amount and type of work the horse is doing. Sometimes only front shoes may be needed. The farrier will be able to advise on the best option for the individual horse. Checklist Always check the horse’s feet after the farrier has visited The horse should be sound. If he is even slightly lame or lame a few days later, the farrier must be recalled immediately to address the problem. Check the balance of the feet. The angle should be around 45-50 degrees from the ground at the front and 50-55 degrees from the ground at the back. The angle through the pastern, fetlock and hoof should be 45 degrees. When viewed from the heel, with the foot raised, the sides of the foot should be level. With the foot on the ground both sides of the hoof should be of equal length. If shod, the shoe should fit the foot with no gaps between the shoe and the foot. The clenches should be about one third of the way up the hoof wall from the floor. They should be in a straight line and be flush with the hoof. The toe clips should also be flush with the hoof wall. The sole of the foot should not be touching the ground in unshod horses The sides of the frog should be trimmed. The frog should be level or slightly below the edge of the hoof wall. If any deviations from the checklist are found, speak to your farrier. There may be a reason for this, such as correction of conformational defects, but the feet may need to be re-checked. Common ailments in the feet In most cases of lameness, the cause is usually found in the foot. Bruised soles These are caused by an injury to the sole of the foot, usually by standing on a hard object or concussion from hard ground. They can also be due to poor trimming or shoeing. Symptoms are acute lameness that gets progressively worse, red or bruised areas seen on the sole, and reaction to pressure on the sole due to pain. The treatment is to restrict movement and keep on a soft surface – a deep bed in a stable, sand school or woodchip area until sound. If in severe pain, call the vet who may prescribe anti-inflammatory drugs and check for any infection. Thrush This is caused by continuous exposure to a damp environment without sufficient care and attention to the feet, such as poor stable management, wet or damp bedding, and wet, muddy fields. It is a bacterial infection and if left untreated, it can move to the sensitive, internal structures in the foot. Symptoms are a black, smelly discharge around the frog, and possibly lameness if severe. The treatment is to scrub out the foot and apply eucalyptus oil (available from most chemists) repeatedly along the grooves of the frog until it clears. The farrier should trim the sides of the frog to remove any damaged tissue. If there is infection and lameness call the vet and follow the advice – it may need poulticing. To prevent thrush, keep the feet clean, scrub them out and apply eucalyptus oil at least once a week during the winter, and when necessary in the summer. Make sure that there is a dry area in the field, for example hard standing, if the horse is out all the time. Make sure bedding is kept clean and dry. Seedy toe This is the separation at the white line. It usually starts at the toe and gradually progresses up the hoof wall. The hole becomes filled with white, dead material. It normally occurs when the toes are allowed to become too long, but it can be a result of laminitis or of concussion on hard ground. This condition needs to be managed by regular, correct trimming by a farrier – the hole will then grow out. Some of the tissue may need to be cut away and packed with putty. There may be an infection so, if the horse is lame, call the vet, as antibiotics may be needed. The foot may then need to be tubbed with water and Epsom salts and poulticed. Laminitis This is caused by several factors, but the main reason is an overload of soluble carbohydrates in the digestive system (see the All About Pets leaflet, Laminitis (H14)). Symptoms are a reluctance to move, increased digital sesamoid pulse, walking heel to toe, and leaning back onto the hind feet. Call the vet immediately and follow the treatment plan given. Remove the horse from grass and take him into a deep bed of shavings, cardboard or sand until sound. To prevent laminitis, a properly formulated high fibre diet is necessary with strict weight control, and regular farrier attention. Infections in the foot (pus in the foot) This is caused by puncture wounds, seedy toe, or bruising. It is the most common reason for lameness. Symptoms are an extreme lameness due to the inflammation in the foot, increasing pressure against the hoof wall, causing pain. There is an increased digital sesamoid pulse in the affected hoof, and reaction to pressure on the infected site due to pain. Call the vet, as the infection (pus) should be released from the foot by digging out the infected area. This can also be done by a farrier. The horse will be sound or at least almost sound after this procedure. The foot will then need to be tubbed and poulticed to draw out the rest of the infection. If not treated, the leg can begin to swell and the infection can spread through the foot and burst out of the coronary band. In extreme cases the vet may prescribe antibiotics alongside practical procedures. Also, ensure that the horse is covered for tetanus, as puncture wounds are an ideal way for tetanus to enter the body. A vet should see all puncture wounds to the foot because if they are deep enough, they can infect the pedal or navicular bone. This is a serious condition and needs surgical attention. It can cause damage to sensitive, internal structures including tendons and could cause permanent lameness. Nail bind/prick This is caused by the farrier putting a nail too close to the sensitive part of the foot (nail bind) or actually piercing the sensitive part of the foot (nail prick). Symptoms are lameness after shoeing, either immediately or up to a couple of days later. To treat it, the farrier needs to remove the nail and the foot should be tubbed and poulticed as with a foot infection. Call the vet if lameness continues, or if the farrier recommends it. Check tetanus vaccinations are up to date. Sand/grass cracks A sand crack starts at the coronet band and works down, whereas a grass crack runs from the ground towards the coronet band. Both are caused by poor foot conformation or condition, poor or irregular farrier attention, or an injury. Call the farrier for treatment. The cracks can be stopped from spreading by marking a groove in the hoof wall above or below the crack, or by putting clips around the start of a grass crack. With regular, correct farriery, the cracks should grow out. To prevent cracks, ensure regular, correct farriery. A dietary supplement of biotin can also promote good hoof condition and growth. Original article produced by The Blue Cross Organisation. Read more at www.bluecross.org

A guide to fitting your saddle When you want to get the best out of your horse, it’s vitally important your saddle fits correctly and comfortably. When fitting your saddle, it is important to have a basic understanding of the muscles, bone-structure and movement of your horse around the saddle area. The specific saddle-support area (diagram 1) of the horse consists of: The Spinal Column and the Thoracic Vertebrae; The Wither; The Ribs; The Scapula and the Longissimus Dorsi. The muscular diagram of the horse shows 3 main muscles that can be affected by a badly fitting saddle: Where should the saddle fit on the horse? Firstly, place the saddle forward of the horse’s wither, then slide the saddle back as far as it will comfortably go. This is determined by the conformation of the horse, but the resting point of the saddle should correspond with the lowest point of the horse’s back. The points of the saddle tree should now be located in the natural depression that is found directly behind the horse’s scapula (shoulder) and must not rest on or impede the scapula. Why is it important to get the saddle in the correct position? For the horse’s comfort and to allow you to adopt an effective riding position. A common mistake is to place the saddle too far forward over the horse’s withers. (diagram3) This will have the effect of placing the points of the saddle-tree over the horse’s scapula, causing pressure which could then impede the horse’s movement and may even cause saddle sores. What your saddle fitter will look for The wither measurement. Your saddle fitter will take an accurate measurement of your horse’s wither. This measurement is crucially important to ensure the front of the saddle gives absolute clearance of this sensitive area of the horse. Any direct pressure here will cause pinching and discomfort and can result in loss of performance and resistance in the horse. This measurement also allows your saddle fitter to check whether the horse is narrow, medium or wide across the shoulders. Remember, your horse can change shape depending on fitness, age and time of the year and this will affect how his saddle fits. Beware! An incorrect saddle-fitting of the withers will result in a saddle that is either too narrow or too wide at the wither. A saddle that is too narrow will be too high at the pommel. Effect on the horse: This will cause undue lateral pressure on either side of the withers, from the points of the saddle-tree and saddle-bars causing pain, sores/bruising of the muscles. In human terms this is similar to wearing shoes that are too tight! Effect on the rider: As the pommel will be too high the rider will be pushed backwards as though they are riding uphill. This will cause the rider to become unbalanced and subsequently cause the horse to feel unbalanced. A saddle that is too wide will be too low on the horse’s withers. Effect on the horse: There will be insufficient clearance of the horse’s withers, so the pommel of the saddle will put pressure on the sensitive wither area causing soreness and rubbing. The panel contact will also not be evenly distributed. Effect on the rider: The saddle will dip down at the front, making the rider feel unbalanced, like riding downhill. The Saddle Gullet. Channel The channel of the saddle gullet must be wide enough to ensure that it does not to press against the horse’s spine, as this is another extremely sensitive area. The panel of the saddle should be designed so that it enables the rider’s weight to be distributed evenly over the full extent of the horse’s bearing surfaces on muscles either side of the vertebrae giving the spinal column sufficient clearance. A well manufactured saddle should allow for a gullet-channel with 3-4 fingers in width in order that the panels rest comfortably either side of the horse’s spinal column and thoracic vertebrae. What about the rider? It’s also crucial that the saddle fits the rider properly, to allow for an effective position to be maintained at all times. SADDLE SEAT – The rider should be able to place a minimum of a full palms width of their hand in front and behind when seating in the saddle. SADDLE FLAPS – The lower leg should hang below the saddle flap, otherwise you will not be able to use your legs effectively. If you have had your saddle fitted by a qualified saddle fitter, try and use a saddlecloth that is slim, bulky saddlecloths and numnahs can interfere with the fit. And remember – choose a saddle for your chosen discipline – i.e. jumping or dressage, alternatively a general purpose saddle is a great choice if you enjoy a bit of everything!

By Dr Katy Taylor,De Montfort University Head Shaking is not a single condition One of the most frustrating things about headshaking is that each case is unique. So, what causes headshaking in one horse may not be the cause in another. It’s important to recognise that headshaking is the symptom of a problem with the horse rather than being the problem itself, although it is often treated as such. There are over 60 known causes of headshaking, including ear, eye and respiratory problems, which makes a veterinary visit all the more important. Simply assuming your horse is an untreatable head shaker may cause more harm. Likewise, be wary of products that claim to cure all head shakers. Headshaking is not a behavioural or management problem Because headshaking often only arises when the horse is ridden, it is commonly attributed to tack problems, bad riding, or resistance. However, studies in the US and UK have shown that around 50% of head shakers also show symptoms at rest. So, whilst exercise always worsens the symptoms, most owners find that changes in tack or schooling have little effect. Researchers at De Montfort University and the University of Lincoln investigated head shakers and non‑head shakers and found no important differences in their diet, use or turnout. The relative unpredictability of the condition and symptoms suggest that the headshaking is not a behavioural one unlike weaving or nodding. Not all headshaking is caused by sunlight (photic headshaking) Head shaking has often been attributed to a reaction to sunlight, but whilst this may be so for some, especially animals in more sunny places like California, many European head shakers seem relatively unaffected by light. Riding indoors or at dusk can still bestow benefits other than by restricting exposure to light so the best test for the photic form of this problem is to carefully cover the horse’s face whilst exercising. Headshaking is not horse hay fever The seasonal nature of headshaking (50% of head shakers only have symptoms from March to October), together with the signs of nasal irritation, has led many to believe that headshaking is a respiratory disorder similar to human hay fever. However, vets remain sceptical because, in general, hay fever medication is not very effective. In addition, vets rarely find clinical signs of an allergic reaction. Although headshaking may be in response to particles in and around the nose, an allergic reaction may not necessarily be occurring. So what does cause headshaking? Given there are a variety of causes, a large proportion of head shakers are thought to be suffering from some kind of pain originating within the head. Nerve pain (neuralgia) has long been considered, ie. damage to the sensory nerves of the head, which may have resulted from physical damage to the nerves or following infection from certain viruses. The involuntary headshaking movement could be a response to the misfiring of a faulty nerve and the rubbing of the face in an attempt to relieve the discomfort caused. Facial neuralgia could account for the general hypersensitivity around the muzzle that many head shakers experience, particularly to rain, snow and wind. In some cases, exercise or particles may be causing the blood vessels in the nose to swell and ‘squash’ the nerve, causing it to misfire. The reasons why some horses head shake and others don’t are not yet known. Frequently the onset of their problem has been traced back to the beginning of the horse’s working life so the many changes that occur within the horse or in its environment during this time may hold part of the answer. Because the problem is often not apparent until the horse is exercised, headshaking could have arisen earlier when the horse was very young but has lain undetected until the horse was backed. Future research into how we can prevent headshaking in foals may be fortuitous once we know more about the causes of headshaking.

Acupuncture can be used as a complementary veterinary treatment for horses, and other animals, amongst other things it can provide pain relief and generally improve a horses’ well-being. Treatment involves stimulation of specific points of the body using very fine, solid needles. It causes inhibition of pain pathways and stimulates the release of pain relieving chemicals in the brain and spinal cord. Acupuncture is an act of veterinary surgery and so can only be performed by a vet. This stimulation can generate many responses within an individual. It can affect muscle, the circulatory, digestive, reproductive and urinary systems, as well as anti-body and hormone production. Conditions which can respond to acupuncture include: back pain, both acute and chronic; lameness – tendonitis, sesamoiditis, laminitis and navicular disease; COPD; chronic gastrointestinal disease (unresolved diarrhoea or constipation); post viral fatigue; paralysis or muscle spasm; behavioural problems and infertility. A course of treatment usually consists of weekly treatments for a minimum of four weeks then gradually extending the time between treatments to a maintenance level which is different for each individual. Chess Valley Equine use a Western Scientific approach to acupuncture treatments and find that where it is used, either alone or in combination with other therapies, the results are very good. Unfortunately there are a small number of individuals and conditions that will not respond to acupuncture. Please visit their website for all the services they can offer:  www.chessvalleyequine.com

How to tell if your horse is happy Although every horse owner knows when to contact the vet, farrier or dentist, most haven’t considered what to do when the problem isn’t physical. As part of everyday horse care, it is routine to look after your horse’s health and ensure his feet, teeth and back are in the best condition possible. However, although it is easy to measure physical attributes, many owners overlook psychological health. Having a happy horse is vitally important as it can benefit his confidence, mood and performance, as well as helping him to get more enjoyment out of everyday activities such as hacking and schooling. The human effect Although juggling work and looking after a horse can sometimes mean constantly rushing around, it is important to remember that horses can feel our energy levels as well as just responding to words and body language. Equine behaviourist Sophie Ostler stresses that horses are prey animals. “If horses sense we are hurrying them or getting impatient they pick up on this as a rushed energy, which translates to the ‘flight mode’. It is important to remain calm, as they look to us, the ‘heard leader’, for reassurance”. Body language is key To assess you horse’s happiness it is often useful to look at his body language during everyday handling – this can be a very good indicator of what he is feeling. “From a behavioural point of view, an unhappy horse will typically display certain signs,” says Sophie. Separation anxiety when leaving his field mates, a reluctance to stand still, or staring into the distance with head held high and a tense jaw are all elements to look out for. “When a horse is in this state it is important he is allowed to keep moving until his attention shifts to the handler,” Sophie points out. “If the horse is ‘made’ to stand still during this mental state he can feel trapped and it can activate his ‘flight’ mode, making his behaviour worsen”. We are all part of a herd Although a horse’s ‘unhappy’ behaviour may seem obvious, there are also many happiness indicators, too. A happy horse sees his owner as part of his heard, ideally the ‘heard leader’, and licking and chewing are signs of a horse submitting to your leadership. Other signs include being responsive and calm, a lowered head, soft eyes and relaxed jaw. A contented horse will seek affection from his owner and show respect by not invading their personal space. “Yawning is also a good sign,” says Sophie. “It doesn’t necessarily indicate a bored horse, but is a sign of relaxation. When horses are stressed or in ‘flight mode’ it is physically impossible for them to yawn due to their increased heart and respiratory rate.” What can you do? It is important to spend time with your horse to build up a bond of trust and respect. Groundwork is invaluable for this, and will have a positive effect of all areas of handling and ridden work. Sophie suggests introducing your horse to new things can help him build confidence and improve your relationship. “Horses are naturally inquisitive about everything, so this can be used to your advantage. The more positive you make new experiences, the more trusting your horse will become, and the braver he will be when entering new or unfamiliar situations.” You are the boss Spending more time with your horse on the ground will be invaluable to your relationship, but it is important to remember that you are the boss. An overconfident horse may try and take the role of ‘herd leader’ by displaying bolshy behaviour and trying to dominate his owner into submission – a situation which will be bad for both of you. Remain calm but assertive when working with your horse from the ground, and remember to use your voice and body language to remind your horse if his behaviour is unacceptable. However, “being the boss should not be confused with rough handling,” Sophie warns. “This does not make for a safe or happy horse and will just make his bad behaviour worse”. How to have a happy horse To have a happy horse, it is vital to be aware of what is important from their point of view. When something is bothering your horse, think of ways you might be able to help. For example, if he is agitated, remember that a threatened horse will want to run, so don’t insist he stands still. Allowing him to walk around will help him settle. Having a secure and happy horse will benefit his behaviour, mood and performance in the school. However, most importantly, it will benefit your relationship and improve your trust, bond and confidence in each other.

Over recent years ‘Kissing Spine’ seems to have become a more widespread and commonly diagnosed condition. The good news is that with the correct treatment and/or surgery many horses are making near to full recoveries and it doesn’t necessarily mean an end to their ridden career whether this is as a happy hacker or a competition horse.  What is Kissing Spine? Kissing spine is a disease of the spine whereby the spaces between the upper dorsal processes of the vertebrate become reduced and the vertebrate actually touch, or ‘kiss’, causing bone to bone contact and in some cases damage to the ligaments within the spine which causes the horse great discomfort. What are the Symptoms of Kissing Spine? Signs indicating kissing spine may include poor performance or a sudden change in behaviour both on the ground and when ridden such as bucking, bolting, rearing, struggling to maintain a particular canter lead, stiffness through the back and hind quarters, reluctance to have the back area touched, groomed or a saddle placed on it. How is Kissing Spine Diagnosed? When the symptoms are realised a veterinarian should be consulted. He will assess the horse by seeing it trot up and/or schooled and then refer for appropriate treatment which could be x-rays, nerve blocks in the area, ultrasounds or scintigraphy (bone scans). How are Horses treated for Kissing Spines? Kissing Spine can be treated a number of ways such as corticosteroid injections, surgery or in some cases it can be managed or pain alleviated by more holistic approaches. These methods may be fundamental to the horse’s recovery post treatment. Surgery is commonplace with many new methods being introduced with the advancements of technology, for example key hole surgery or Svend Kold’s method which has been proven successful. Where can I find information from owners whose horses have as kissing spines? A number of websites and social media pages are available for horse owners with kissing spine horses to share their experiences – how they cope from when they first receive a diagnosis, through the treatment process to how they can assist the recovery of their beloved horse. These websites may not include information from qualified practitioners such as veterinarians or physiotherapists so your own vet/physio should be consulted prior to trying anything new with your horse. Two sites which may help support existing owners include a blog by Ruth Bishop, a 24 year old Riding Instructor from Cornwall whose Thoroughbred X, Adam, was diagnosed with kissing spines in January 2013 and a Facebook group called ‘Horses with Kissing Spines’ – Ruth’s Blog Horses With Kissing Spines – These sites provide horse owners a place to communicate with other owners whose horse has had kissing spines and see what recovery programme has worked best and what additional products they can buy to help make this time easier and keep their horses as comfortable as possible.